It's Spring
Here in the Midwest, we store our cars for 6 months or more. While in annual storage, we dream about sunny days and long drives down tree-lined country roads, picnics and of course, car shows. Today being the first day of spring, I thought what better time to talk about what you should do to get your sleeping beauty revived for the season.
Pitfalls of Winter Storage
Quite a few things can happen to a sleeping VW in storage. While they are covered up safely in the garage (or worse, uncovered outside), many things can happen to your “little car” that could hurt it or you if you just start it up and drive into the season:
Tires loose air
Fuel systems varnish
Oil collects moisture
Brake fluid collects moisture
Rubber degrades
Moisture attacks the interior
Rodents can move in
None of these situations are acceptable and need to be checked over before driving anywhere!
I will cover all issues separately with experiences that have happened to me over the years as well as teachings from the guru’s of the hobby and automotive trade. I will also try to cover the aspects of storing our cars correctly. It’s a lot easier to be proactive and do Fall maintenance than find that you have problems in the spring.
Correcting Winter Pitfalls: get ready for storage and roll out into an easy spring
1) TIRES
In the fall, take the time to raise the car on jack-stands. This keeps the tires from developing flat spots and keeps them away from moisture seeping up from cement.
Think about having your tires filled with nitrogen. This is becoming a very popular trend among vintage car owners. Nitrogen-filled tires do not loose pressure due to temperature changes, have no moisture and therefore do not rot from the inside out. Don’t forget to do the same to the spare.
Check the tires for any dry rot on the sidewalls and especially in the crevasses between the treads. Loss of tire treads due to rot can cause severe loss of control while driving. Think Safe! Treat the tires with a silicone-based protectant.
Examine each tire by slowly spinning it to check for nails, screws or any debris then spin it quickly while looking at it from the road side to check for side-to-side wobble or “hopping." Look at the rims for any damage. If any of the above is found. Take the tires and wheels to a qualified facility to have them checked for damage and balance. Very few shops these days have the correct fixtures to balance the pre 68 Wide 5 rims. If you are having problems finding one, keep looking. These tools are still out there somewhere. I can refer you to a shop if you live in Michigan.
2) FUEL SYSTEM
Before you store the car for the season, add the correct amount of fuel stabilizer to the gas tank, drive the car for 5 miles to let it enter the float bowl and all passages. If you will be storing it for a year or more, I suggest draining it dry and running the car until it ceases to run, blow out all lines with compressed air and install a new fuel filter.
At the end of storage in the spring, examine ALL rubber fuel hoses. Start with the one under the fuel tank. This one is commonly overlooked due to its difficulty to examine. I remove the right front wheel and examine it with a BRIGHT flashlight. The next one is located between the hard fuel line where it exits the left frame horn and the short metal line, where it enters the engine bay. Check this one carefully for clearance to the exhaust. If your car does not have heat exchangers this is extremely important: hot headers and melted fuel line cause fires.
While inspecting fuel lines you should be looking for any frayed cloth covering, especially for cracks at the ends of the tubing. This area always shows rot first. I change my fuel lines every 5 years, filter once a year and the fuel tank screen every 5 years. Original early fuel pumps also have a filter. If your car has one then clean it yearly.
Use clamps at every connection. Carbureted VW's did not have clamped supply lines from the factory, but were clamped on the pressure side. USE THEM EVERYWHERE! I like to use the German ABA clamps. They do not pinch the tubing when tightened and look factory original.
3) CHANGE THE OIL
During driving season the oil in your car collects not only impurities from normal combustion but also moisture from driving on short trips. When you prepare the car for storage change the oil to remove said impurities, pour in fresh oil and warm up the engine to operating temperature. When reviving your car in the spring, change the oil again! Oil is the lifeblood of your engine. It not only lubricates it but also assists in cooling the engine. Keep it clean!
4) BRAKES
How long since you’ve changed/ flushed your brake system? Brake fluid collects moisture over time which in turn corrodes metal and rubber components in the hydraulic system and also raises the boiling point which can cause brake fade during hard use. Fluid should be changed every 2 years. Just because the fluid in the reservoir looks clean does not mean that it’s clean in the rest of the system. The best way to check the condition of your fluid is to take a sample from the wheel cylinder bleeder.
My 67 Beetle had silicone brake fluid installed by the previous owner. This fluid can last for 5 years or more but should NOT be used in a VW. The seals are not compatible with the silicone and if accidentally mixed with conventional fluid they can cause “globs” to form.
Check the adjustment and operation of all 4 wheels. Visually check each wheel for function. Check the pedal free-play for excessive travel and adjust the brakes if needed
5) EXTERIOR RUBBER
Treat all rubber before, during and after storage. The best way I have found to accomplish this is with a small zip-lock baggie with a small rag in the bottom. This keeps the treatment from over spraying onto the paint. Saturate the rag with rubber treatment and dip a small ˝” brush into the baggie. Carefully “paint” on the treatment on all rubber and plastic surfaces. Take your time and have fun doing it. When you are finished, zip the bag up with the brush in it for the next application.
6) MOISTURE
Before storing the car, crack the windows slightly, even if covered. If the car is to be over cement, put a plastic tarp under the car. This will help to keep mold or excess moisture from forming in the car. In the spring, take the car outside in the sun to warm and dry it out completely.
7) RODENTS
Many a owner has experienced these little suckers. I once had a fresh 1904cc engine stored on my workbench for the winter. When I went to install it in the spring, the engine would not turn over. It baffled me for a few days before the decision to pull it apart. Upon inspection it was found that a family of mice had made house in the combustion chamber of #1 cylinder. The nasty little things had climbed into my open header, past an open valve in the head and made a nest on top of the piston. Those things can squeeze into any small orifice. Some ways to discourage them is to cover the intake and exhaust with wire mesh or keep the car up and on jack-stands and use traps in every area. I put them in the trunk, engine compartment and in the interior. Cat’s help too.
Having an enjoyable and trouble free driving season depends on preparation, inspection and safety conscious maintenance. You’ll be glad you did it.
Now get out and find those places that you’ve never been before, and experience all that cruising in a vintage VW has to offer.
Talk to you all later; I have some maintenance to do. | 
